And they call it winding down
The six to ten crowd, smoky bars
Notes on napkins and business cards
Describe the days events and go on home
And it’s likely they won’t drown
The price goes up and one more round
They close up all the bars downtown
As the singer plays one last rip roaring song
- Clint Black, “Winding Down”
Words won’t do the weekend justice, and I didn’t take any pictures, so I don’t suppose this will be the most in-depth reporting on the weekend that was.
I was fortunate to judge this year’s barleywine festival at Toronado again, so I had to be there pretty ‘early’ in the day. Wanting to start the day off right, I got in extra early and had a great breakfast around the corner at Squat and Gobble. As is normal, as it got closer to 9:30 there were more and more judges hoping to also get a quick bite before settling in for a party. I sat with a couple guys who’d driven in from Reno, enjoyed my Juevos Rancheros and made my way to the Golden Peacock, where the judging would take place.
I was part of the first round of judging, which is just fine with me, so we gathered around tables, sitting in groups of three, and went through our flight of beers – which meant 8 barleywines to judge for must of us there. Every beer is judged twice in the first round, a double blind technique that gives the beer more of a chance of succeeding should one table not agree to it’s worth or quality. Of the 8 beers per panel, we are requested to send only 3 of them on to the next round (our panel only sent on 2). The scores are tallied by the organizer, Russ Wigglesworth (who has been doing a bang-up job running this for years!) and in the second round the beers passed on are again judged twice. Eventually the master judges of the final round will be delivered a managable number of beers, the crowds will gather and winners will be announced… by number only, of course. It’s a great system, and this is one of the many competitions in the country every year that really ‘means’ something. The caliber of judges is good, the caliber of beers exceptional – to be a winner, you’ve got to be damn good!
Of course the winners were:
- Old Gnarleywine 2006, Lagunitas Brewing
- Old Guardian 2006, Stone Brewing
- Abacus Blend, Firestone Walker Brewing
The results surprised some, but perhaps nobody as much as Dan Hanson of Lagunitas, who told me the following day he had no idea until early that morning! Apparently he doesn’t usually send beers in for competition, but with a little friendly prodding by Dave at Toronado, he sent in a keg for good measure. Congratulations, by the way, to all the folks at Lagunitas.
The afterparty would start shortly after the judging was over, with food delivered and served to the judges, along with beers served up front – not all barleywine either. Before long it was time for many to move on to “phase two” of their day, with a trip to Anchor to celebrate the state’s best homebrew clubs. The Anchor Party is a great and generous event for the homebrew community, with dinner served at the brewery, enjoyed alongside Anchor’s proud beer lineup.
Of course, not everyone homebrews, so several folks (myself included) headed across the street to join the madness that is Toronado. Incredible! Several people likened the experience to a “human carwash”, getting bumped and violated (incidental contact, I’m sure) along the way. Through the mess of humanity, the sticky sweet air and all the noise, it was actually quite relaxing to be there, sipping on big beers and knowing that when all is said and done, a friendly cab will take me to the hotel.
Toronado never really quieted down that day. As the first wave of flesh stumbled to their rides home, a new and fresh wave found their way – and their seats – just in time to keep the staff here hustling to keep up.
Reflecting on the day that was, I can’t wait for next year. This isn’t a sustainable form of drinking or partying, but every once in a while, it’s just fun to be part of something like this! The whole time you’re there, things move a bit faster – even after a few – as you’re seeing people you know, folks you’d like to know, and always chatting it up with the guy/girl next to you just to see what they’re enjoying.
Special Thanks
There’s a few folks I just gotta say hello to, people I spent time with over the weekend that helped make it what it was. Yes, this looks like ass-kissing, perhaps moving into name-dropping, but it’s my blog and I can kiss as much ass as I want to. Right? There’s a lot more, but these guys all have blogs about beer!
- Chris, The Beer Retard! Dude… always a good time. Thanks for the beer!
- Chris and Merideth, The Beer Geeks (dot com!). You two are good people and I look forward to seeing you in a couple weeks.
- Jay Brooks. I still feel honored you know who I am… and you still say hello to me! Seriously, if there’s a good guy award in the industry, he’d be a finalist. It’s stunning to see how many people, from all over the country, genuinely like this guy.
- Steve Beaumont… You introduced me to some habit forming behaviors, and I think a follow-up trip to Bourbon and Branch is in order. You also proved that judging can take as long as it needs to. 
Of course there’s others, the weekend was full of friendly faces and good times. If you weren’t able to make any Beerapalooza events, I’d recommend you plan for 2009. As Big Mike says, “it doesn’t suck.”
I mentioned a few days ago we’d be heading up to Auburn Alehouse for their big special meal tonight. To begin, their food is regularly top-notch, with their regular menu offering exceptional dishes. We weren’t sure what to expect heading in, the four courses seemingly ‘overpriced’ and not entirely jumping out at us. Boy, were we wrong.
First dish was a seared tuna salad, served in martini glasses – great presentation. This was a great starting plate, lightly dressed and with a mild zest quality throughout. It was perhaps too delicate for the IPA Brian just put on this week, but did go shockingly well with Cantillon Rose de Gambrinus.
Up next, a bowl of shrimp bisque soup. We were surprised it came as quick as it did, we weren’t quite ready for it, but it was good. I feel a bit bad for this dish, squished in between two great dishes and never really capturing our full attention, as we soon found our main course in front of us before the soup was consumed. The IPA did seem more appropriate here.
The entre of the night was fillet wellington, which blew us both away. My goodness, this steak was as tender as any you’d hope to find, seared nicely before being topped with fois gras, wrapped in puff pastry and baked to perfection. The plate also had stuffed prawns, asparagus and mashed potatoes. Knowing this was on the menu, I brought a bottle of Firestone Walker Eleven to enjoy. Oh my! You really can’t ask for better experiences. I know the beer’s hard to come by, but if you’re lucky to see one available, trust me: it’s worth the 17 bucks or so to buy. We poured glasses to share with Brian the Brewmaster, as well as Louise the Chef… it was well received.
Dessert, after that amazing plate, was the afterthought you’d hope it would be. Honestly, the truffles were great and paired nicely with the Cantillon. It’s just, well, we were full and still recalling the beef. I have a feeling we’ll be remembering the wellington for some time, actually.
In addition to the above mentioned beers, we can attest to the high quality of Brian’s Red 45, which I’d expect has a bit of Vienna malt judging by the flavor, falling somewhere in between an Octoberfest and ESB… which is to say hoppier and ale-esque. That IPA of his is nothing short of beautiful. My goodness, piney, citrusy, floral – it really runs the gamut of American hop flavor.
One final note about AAH. Their staff just rocks, and it starts with the owners and managers. Brian works his ass off, typically starting before any of us are dreaming of being awake, but still finds it important to get behind the bar and do the things that need to be done. Then, there’s Sloan, the attractive, friendly and hard-working manager. This woman is inspiring to watch, as one minute she can be mixing drinks before sweeping the floor on her way to bus a table. Not only that, the staff clearly likes her. Our server of the night was Michelle, kind, prompt and just a pleasure to see. They know their jobs, do them well and all work to make patrons feel right at home. Maybe that’s why it’s like a second home.
That this beer was made by Russian River for Bottleworks is not really news to most. However, a sneak peak at the label is certainly fun (found on TTB). Combining a few Russian River barrel-aged beers, PH1, Orphan Ale, Sonambic and conditioned in the bottle with Brett (these have been bottled for some time), you can rest assured this beers going to be sour – in that ‘oh, so good’ way.
Look for this to be available in April. And no, don’t expect it to last very long on the shelf.
Earlier this week NPR ran a story on the likeability, or lack thereof, of a certain female presidential candidate. In the soundbites we heard her bemoaning the fact that so many people voted for our current president because he was someone we felt we could sit and share a beer with. Now, the story was definitely not about beer, but toward the end they asked her about this, the perception she’s not the person American’s seem to want to sit and enjoy a beer with. Her response was appropriate, reminding us that we’re not voting for Student Body President here; however, she also admitted she’d had more than a few beers with folks on the campaign trail – beers of the “local” and “microbrew” variety.
Now, don’t get me wrong, I know she’s as well scripted as any right about now, but the sentiment was comforting, the picture painted good. She could have left it at having ‘beer’ on the trail, but she actually clarified the local and microbrewed beer consumption. Does this mean anything? No, of course not. I just thought I’d share because I’m a sucker for anything craft beer related. Right?
If you’re a fan of Ani DiFranco, you’ll know that lyric. It isn’t really a life-guiding statement for me, but more and more it seems like a good idea. Why? I don’t fully know, but it just seems necessary – and not just for beer. Reading a few blogs today got me thinking…
First, there was Jay’s bit on Cognitive Branding, which was really about another story, but as Jay tends to do, it all made sense in the end. The premise had a lot to do with A-B’s marketing success, or what makes their marketing a success – specifically related to Super Bowl ads.
The other post was by Lew as he passed on a story about Don Russell and his overall contribution to Philly’s beer scene. I read the piece and learned a few things about Don, being a younger guy in the beer blogging/writing world there’s a lot I still have to learn about those I casually know (or know of). You can also add to this pile of thoughtful contemplation yesterday’s post by Lew encouraging all to check out Pete Brown’s Blog, which I have now and then, but without any real dedication.
Anyway, where am I?
There are great beer writers out there, and beer bloggers who warrant the attention they get. Each with their own drum to beat, stories and information to pass on. They’re not leaving the telling to anyone else, and we’re the better for it! Imagine a world where all our beer knowledge came from A-B ads, or where everything we know of food comes from restaurant chains. We’re inundated with crap, everywhere we turn there’s misinformation, half-truths and “spin” – retelling stories in a way that meets an agenda. I guess you don’t really have to imagine too hard if you were around before this maturing anti-industrial culture – which I hear pre-dates the internet!
The world needs your story everyday, and that doesn’t mean we need your words on another blog (necessarily). You don’t need to be the fool nobody wants to be around, but each of us (I’m assuming a bit about the PBN audience) has something to say when it comes to beer, food, life. Why leave the telling to the Industrial Brewers, or even Jay, Stan, Lew, Pete or anyone else for that matter? Here’s a few things you can do to find your voice.
- Ask restaurant managers why they don’t have a local craft beer on tap. Be polite, but direct. Restaurants around the country have wine lists designed to impress, with a beer corner for those who just gotta have a beer – you know, the corner with B/C/M. In these places you won’t find Ernest and Julio Blush wine, so why do they insist on carrying the industrial swill that does little for the community, offers little flavor and doesn’t really go well with the 20 dollar plate you’re going to enjoy? Ask, challenge, engage.
- Do the same with grocers, corner shops and office parties. Too many grocers carry “what sells” when it comes to beer, but again carrying wines galore. Challenge that notion a bit, again as diplomatically as you can. Best selling wine in the US is something like Franzia or E&J Gallo, nothing any wine person would be proud to serve at dinner or to friends. Point that out, tell them that just like higher-end wines you expect to see beers of variety, character and depth. If it’s a good buyer, they’ll listen. Face it, they’ve really got little to lose and often welcome the suggestions – and your word may mean a whole lot more than the same exact words coming from the brewery reps that get paid to make face-time with this guy.
- Don’t be a dick. This may seem counter to what I mentioned above, but you’ll earn little points in a real life situation if you make a scene, belittle anyone for their taste in beer or disrespect someone for not catering to your consumer needs. I’ve witnessed too many ‘beer geeks’ rail on a guy who is just out to have a good time, or servers who have no control over what’s on a menu. Oh, and telling someone they’re going to lose your business is just silly, boycotting an establishment rarely gets anything done except make folks happy to see you walk away. While telling your story, remember who you’re talking to and who you represent.
- Oh, if you don’t like that last line, know that when you speak for better beer, you do represent a community of beer enthusiasts, the better beer industry and people who have the same end goals as you do (we all want the better beers on the shelf, on the menu). In a way I’d call us ambassadors. If you’re out only to represent yourself, well that’s your thing. Maybe you only want to see the beer you want because you want it – and I suppose that’s fine. But for me I speak because I assume the only beer-sense someone has is what they’ve seen on TV. Trust me, I have enough good beer at home to live a merry beer-rich life. I know that the fine brewers of the world don’t have the marketing budgets the industrial brewers have, so I see myself as their way to communicate to people outside their brewery.
Now, I know that not everyone is really cut out for this sort of advocacy – and trust me when I say that is more than OK. I just know that many of you have the ability, and even the desire to speak up sometimes when you feel it’s necessary. For those in the latter group, I ask again – Why leave the telling to everyone else?
About the Image: No explaining that one, it wasn’t anything close to what I was looking for, but seemed only mildly inappropriate for this post.
Last night found me and my lovely wife in Sacramento’s most beloved brewery, Rubicon, for what we thought would be a quick drink before getting home at a reasonable hour. We were both a bit tired and looked forward to a relaxing weekend ahead of us – we were clearly not out for a party. We realized soon after arriving at Rubicon, however, that we’d need more than just one drink, as their menu read like a dream: IPA (of course), Dunkel Hefeweizen (seasonal), English Porter (seasonal), Winter Wheat Wine (seasonal) and High Mountain Cherry (the last of it).
You’ll recall Rubicon took home a GABF gold medal for their sour cherry beer in last year’s festival, a beer that took years of patience and craftsmanship to create. Well, it was going to be a thing of history in no time at all, the last of this one-off beer is headed to San Diego for a few festivities down there – we were quick to order a glass.
Phone call, unknown number. I answer and piece together that the caller is none other than Tom Schmidlin, Wyncoop’s 2006 Beer Drinker of the Year. With all the noise in the bar it was hard to make things out, but it was clear he was in the bar. Hanging up it only took a minute to spot Tom walking toward me with a gift in tow – Hair of the Dog’s Fred of the Wood. We exchanged the necessary pleasantries and before too long he too had a glass of the cherry to enjoy.
Tom, for those who don’t recall, won the Beer Drinker honors for his work with yeast strains and other science stuff that, even when told, didn’t quite understand. I did catch this though – the guy’s smart, likes his beer and knows more about the magic of fermentation than I will ever hope to know. On top of that, he’s one hell of a cool guy to have a drink with – or a few.
Within a few drinks of cherry beer I figured it’d be a good thing to introduce Tom to the long-time brewer at Rubicon, Scott Cramlet, working the midnight shift in a small brewery that seems to never stop. From there, the night only got better. Scott told the stories you’d expect a man to have after 18 years working in the same brewery, a brewery that has seen very little in the way of change since opening its doors more than 20 years ago. He’s a masterful brewer, by the way, helping to shape the current-day understanding of one of the country’s most beloved beer styles – the American IPA. In fact, Scott’s beer took the very first gold medal at GABF when the style was officially recognized – then again the following year. By today’s standards one would argue it’s not hoppy enough, or lacks the intense aromas needed in the category – but those who say that are weird. It really is a great beer, and over the years we’ve enjoyed our share.
The night bled into the morning and Scott treated us to some great beer, the wheat wine being particularly fantastic this year, like candy! The on-tap version of the IPA is unfiltered, full of flavor and completely satisfying. Sadly, this is not a treat we should get used to, as the market demands Scott filter the beer before leaving the brewery – Rubicon’s IPA is on tap throughout the region and without him to explain the hazy quality of an unfiltered beer, bar-goers seem quick to return the beer without appreciating the haze and hand-made goodness in front of them. Before too long that bottle of Fred was opened too – man is that oaky!
It was 2AM when we parted ways. Scott still had a bit of work to do, Tom had a hotel and Tracy was eager to drive me home.
Conclusion: beer people are cool people. I’ve said it before, you’ve heard it before, but its truth cannot be overstated. Tom and Scott are examples of a story played out around the country, brewers taking time to really talk with those who really appreciate the work they do, making people like me feel at home. With people like this, there’s no wonder the people of the country are flocking to support craft beer and the craft beer industry.
I just spoke with Peter Hoey, brewmaster at Sacramento Brewing Company, and have a few nuggets I think you’ll find interesting – even if you’re not from the region.
First, the sale is still pending TTB approval. Estimates for this to go through range from days to months – typical of the feds, right?
(Pictured: Left – Peter Salmond, head brewer at SBC’s Oasis; Right – Peter Hoey, SBC Brewmaster)
In the Tanks
Peter has two very interesting projects going on right now.
His most complete project is a tank-conditioned Tripel/Strong Blond. Peter has a fondness for bottle conditioned Belgian beers, when compared to the tap versions. He feels they have more character, especially styles like Saison, which he is well familiar with. So, with that in mind, and given he has an empty tank for the winter slow months, he’s decided to condition an entire batch in a tank! He capped off the tank last night, went home and wondered if his hair-brained idea would work, or if he’d come in to find nothing happening. Overnight, the pressure of the tank rose to 4 PSI! That is a very promising result. This beer is very lightly filtered (6 microns) to allow a hazy appearance without being thick. In addition to the base ingredients, Peter has added Turbonado Sugar – or sugar in the raw. With the way it’s looking now, patrons can expect to see this beer in early February.
The other project is one closer to the heart, Rory’s Ale (I guessed on the spelling, that could be really wrong). This beer is being made to celebrate the birth of his first baby, due any day now – and his wife, Britney, looks fantastic, ready to deliver! This beer is due a couple months after the baby, with an expected delivery of March. It is also a Belgian inspired beer, with pomegranate and sour cherry juice additions. From everything I’ve heard, from before it was ever brewed till now, this beer is going to kick ass.
Finally, something a bit more ‘regular’. Peter’s just finished brewing an English Style Porter. This will be ready soon and is intended to get the locals through the rest of our cool months here. I believe this is their first ’straight’ porter. In the past they’ve made “Double Shot”, a porter made with coffee additions – which is currently on tap too, very drinkable with coffee notes that are not overpowering or long lingering.
Till they are complete, locals and regulars can go and enjoy Sac Brew’s regular offerings – the Red Horse and Sacsquatch are exceptional these days, with minor tweaks by Peter proving to have serious impact on the beers’ overall flavor. Red Horse is again dry-hopped, with slight changes in the varieties used. The Sacsquatch has less smoked malt and is incredibly drinkable (oh, it did win the Best of Show honors at the 2007 California Brewers Fest). Of course, you could also enjoy the Russian Imperial Stout that took bronze at this years GABF, great this time of year. What’s great about these beers, they’re bottled and distributed in a number of Northern California markets. I believe I also heard they are making their way into San Diego these days too, but I don’t know many details there.
For dinner last night Tracy and I decided to see how things were going at Folsom’s new beer haven, Manderes. We arrived to a place bustling with activity, with what appeared to be an office party, couples enjoying dinner and a bar full of regulars watching sports and drinking good beer. I was happy to see people here, on a random Thursday evening. I spoke with Brent, owner, and he said business was good. Sure, he had the off day, but this time of year you’d expect that from even the most established restaurants.
We knew the beer here was good, but what we weren’t fully aware of was the food. On our first visit we shared a salad and a burger for lunch. While our first meal was good, it’s pretty hard to really gauge a place on the quality of their burger. Last night’s meal included the Beef Kabob’s, served atop mashed potatoes, and Lobster Ravioli’s served in a cream sauce. Both were excellent, satisfying meals, well beyond standard pub fare. The beef on the kabob was tender, cooked to order, and generous in portions – a great deal for under 15 dollars. Tracy’s ravioli’s were equally impressive. She was hesitant to order them, fearing they’d be bland and hard to enjoy. To her surprise they were bursting with flavors, savory and filling. Each meal came with a generous portion of salad with house-made dressing. I wouldn’t normally mention a salad, by the way, but it really set the tone for the meal – fresh lettuce, a wonderful dressing… yeah, it was good.
In addition to the meals we enjoyed, Manderes offers aged steak, pork chops I’ve heard wonderful reports on, glazed and grilled chicken and beautiful salads and soups. The price ranges from 8 bucks (for a soup) to 25 bucks (surf-n-turf). Add to that a beer menu that is best in the region, and you’ve got yourself a hell of a dinner. And, as if this weren’t enough, for dessert they offer a cheesecake, wrapped in a tortilla, fried, topped with ice cream, caramel and cinnamon. Yeah, it looked pretty freaking good.
As a side note, I was able to talk with one of Manderes’ chefs, Earnest, last night. He was hired straight out of a major casino in Vegas. The guy’s got a great personality, warm and friendly – very easy to talk to if he’s not too busy. Talking with him and Brent, it sounds as if we can expect special menu items in the future, once they get a handle on the business side of things – including staffing, orders and all that fun stuff small business owners do on their own. Manderes also has a chef named Warren, who apparently has been on from the beginning. Brent feels lucky to have both, so much that he can’t help but look like the cat that ate the canary, with a sheepish grin that only serves to prove his genuine appreciation for the work they do.
What to do Before Dinner in Folsom
If you’re thinking about going to Manderes, but aren’t from Folsom, there are a handful of great activities you can enjoy to work up an appetite.
- Historic Folsom is just blocks away, has a number of unique ma-n-pop shops, as well as swanky stops.
- The American River is just down the hill. If you’re looking for a work-out, you can ride your bike along the trail there. It’s been a few years since Tracy and I have done that, but on a cool clear day, there’s nothing better.
- Folsom’s Brewmeister is at the edge of the historic area. If you’re a homebrewer, you can pick up your ingredients or equipment, talk it up with Eric or Kevin, then head just up the hill for great beer.
Manderes | Folsom, Ca from Rick on Vimeo.
It’s bottled! December 28th they finished wax dipping. Now, all we have to do in Northern California is wait. For what, you may be wondering?
75 Cases
6 Kegs
That’s what’s on the way to Northern California. The expected arrival time for this is the last week of the month. Then, it will have to be distributed to the right places. I’ll keep you updated, if you’re interested, on where this beer will be tapped and available. For those who don’t recall, Abyss is Deschutes‘ Oak Barrel Aged Imperial Stout that took the beer geek world by storm last year.
From the Abyss Press Release:
“The Abyss has developed somewhat of a cult following,” reveals Deschutes Brewery’s Jason Randles. “In fact, we’ve had reports from some bottle shops where six or seven cases have already been reserved through single bottle orders.”In addition to being a beer aficionado’s favorite, The Abyss has been showered with industry and consumer awards including being named the “Best Stout in the World” by Men’s Journal’s October 2007 issue, Top 10 on BeerAdvocate.com’s World’s Best rankings, “Gold Medal Imperial Stout” at the 2007 Great American Beer Festival and “Best Beer Above 7%, International Champion Beer & Supreme Champion” at the 2007 International Beer Challenge.
The suggested retail price on this year’s Abyss is $10 for a wax dipped 22-ounce bottle. I personally thought last year’s was a bit hot and needed some time to lay down and mellow out. That said, it was still a strikingly good beer. You can bet I’ll find a couple bottles of this year’s release as well.
